civicx what primer to use on bare metal

ducktapeguy

I did a search only didn't meet this discussed or I missed information technology. When doing torso work, what is the gild of repairs later welding? Is it better to utilize body filler on blank metal or primer?

Also, for repair patches that won't be painted for a while, what'due south the best way of protecting information technology from rust? For now, I've been using a spray can primer just to get something on bare metallic, but I already run across some rusting in the seams so maybe I wasn't putting a thick enough coat on. An epoxy primer is probably ameliorate, but non e'er feasible when doing small-scale areas. These are areas that may sit down around for months or even a yr before I'm ready to pigment. Can anyone recommend a expert spray tin primer, some affair I can use for spot repairs?

PAToyota

My standard procedure is to lay down a coat of epoxy primer over everything to get it all sealed. Many of the body fillers are porous, so you desire that sealer under everything to protect the bare metal. If you're still doing welding and patch panels, you can get 2K epoxy primer in a spray can. It'south expensive, but yous can do your body work on an surface area, clean it all up, and so seal it upward with the spray can. When you're all finished, clean it all up and lay downwardly a coat of primer surfacer over everything to starting time blocking things out.

ducktapeguy

Thanks for the info. Are there any other primers can exist used equally a base of operations to seal the metal? I of the reasons I haven't used the epoxy primer is the shelf life is a thing of days once activated (from the ones i've looked at). So unless I practice a very big repair that needs an entire can I'd be wasting about of it.

Jdc1

Thanks for the info. Are at that place any other primers can exist used as a base to seal the metal? One of the reasons I oasis't used the epoxy primer is the shelf life is a affair of days once activated (from the ones i've looked at). So unless I do a very large repair that needs an entire can I'd be wasting most of it.

Epoxy is best. Just mix up a smaller amount. It'southward worth information technology to invest in the DeCups starter pack for your HVLP gun.

Prairie Swamp

I've had good results with a Harbor Freight bear upon up gun and mixing modest amounts of 2K epoxy. If you do it right there'southward little waste material, and I would recollect more economical than anything in a rattle can. Lasts years in the can prior to mixing.

FishNinJay

My standard procedure is to lay down a coat of epoxy primer over everything to become it all sealed. Many of the body fillers are porous, so you lot want that sealer under everything to protect the bare metal. If you're still doing welding and patch panels, you can get 2K epoxy primer in a spray can. Information technology'due south expensive, merely you can practice your trunk work on an area, clean it all up, so seal it up with the spray can. When you're all finished, clean it all upwards and lay down a coat of primer surfacer over everything to start blocking things out.

That'southward interesting. I need to tackle some surface rust spots and simply figured I'd hit information technology with wire bike, sand information technology and clean. Then figured I'd employ any filler or finish bondo then primer. What's etching primer vs epoxy? Lamentable for the basic questions! Also, was considering later sand and clean, doing a spray coat of VHT Rust Reformer to treat tiny rust pinholes my optics might miss. And then filler bondo? Sand, primer, more sanding, paint. Cheers!!

Jdc1

That's interesting. I need to tackle some surface rust spots and but figured I'd striking it with wire wheel, sand it and clean. So figured I'd apply any filler or finish bondo then primer. What'southward etching primer vs epoxy? Sorry for the basic questions! Also, was considering after sand and make clean, doing a spray glaze of VHT Rust Reformer to treat tiny rust pinholes my optics might miss. Then filler bondo? Sand, primer, more than sanding, paint. Thanks!!

Epoxy is a direct to metallic primer. It'south pretty bad ass. Yous want to seal the metal before using whatever filler to prevent any moisture getting through the filler to the metal.

FishNinJay

Epoxy is a directly to metal primer. Information technology'south pretty bad donkey. Yous want to seal the metal earlier using whatever filler to foreclose whatsoever moisture getting through the filler to the metallic.

Cool.. I'll wait for that 2K epoxy primer. Whatever thoughts on these rustoleum or VHT "rust reformers"? or just snake oil nonsense? Thanks..

Jdc1

Absurd.. I'll look for that 2K epoxy primer. Any thoughts on these rustoleum or VHT "rust reformers"? or just snake oil nonsense? Thanks..

The rust reformers will simply stick to rust, if you get some on clean metal it just wipes off and paint won't like it. after sandblasting you can hit it with a wire cycle if y'all demand to. Make certain not to affect the bare canvas metallic with blank easily as the oils in your skin will make it rust.

Eastwood has a lot of decent videos on body work.

Splangy

The rust reformers will only stick to rust, if you become some on clean metal it just wipes off and paint won't like information technology. after sandblasting you tin hit it with a wire bike if y'all need to. Make sure not to touch on the bare sheet metal with blank hands as the oils in your skin volition make it rust.
Eastwood has a lot of decent videos on body piece of work.

Rust converters work, but will never provide the aforementioned results every bit blasting to white metallic. If you're going to use a converter, exercise so before blasting so that the converter will treat the areas y'all can't blast and the backlog will be removed during blasting. Exercise not use a wire bicycle afterward blasting. It will remove the surface profile created past blasting and defeats the purpose of blasting.

Jdc1

Rust converters piece of work, but will never provide the aforementioned results as diggings to white metal. If y'all're going to use a converter, do so before diggings and so that the converter volition treat the areas yous can't boom and the excess will be removed during blasting. Exercise not use a wire wheel later blasting. It will remove the surface profile created past diggings and defeats the purpose of blasting.

Agree to disagree on this one. The process that I am learning(show car finish) is.

Heavy rust repair
Mock up
Boom
Wire Bike
Epoxy Primer
Filler
Primers
Colour/Clear

At that place's commonly sanding between every stride.

The difficult thing about paint and body is that everyone does it there own manner.

Splangy

Agree to disagree on this one. The procedure that I am learning(show car terminate) is.
Heavy rust repair
Mock up
Smash
Wire Cycle
Epoxy Primer
Filler
Primers
Color/Clear

At that place's unremarkably sanding betwixt every step.

The difficult thing about paint and trunk is that everyone does it there own way.

Yes, but not everybody does it the right way. In fact, many people fail to read the tech sheets for the coatings they're applying.

Epoxies (like most coatings) require a surface contour for proper adhesion. Applying coatings to a smooth wire wheeled surface Will result in less adhesion than a properly prepared surface.

One of the chief benefits of using epoxies is their excellent adhesion to a properly prepared steel surface. By compromising the adhesion, information technology defeats the purpose of using that product.

If you need to create profile again after doing sheet metal work, you can blast again (non practical in most cases) or sand using the grit specified in the product tech sheets.

Also, avert creating too much profile by using too heavy of a dust when blasting or sanding. It can lead to just as many problems as not enough profile.

Jdc1

Yeah, but not everybody does it the right way. In fact, many people neglect to read the tech sheets for the coatings they're applying.
Epoxies (like nigh coatings) require a surface contour for proper adhesion. Applying coatings to a polish wire wheeled surface WILL result in less adhesion than a properly prepared surface.

One of the chief benefits of using epoxies is their excellent adhesion to a properly prepared steel surface. By compromising the adhesion, it defeats the purpose of using that production.

If y'all need to create profile again after doing sheet metal piece of work, you tin can boom again (non practical in most cases) or sand using the grit specified in the production tech sheets.

Likewise, avoid creating besides much profile by using also heavy of a grit when blasting or sanding. Information technology tin lead to but as many problems equally not enough profile.

I antiseptic today, we do sand with 180 prior to epoxy.

FishNinJay

Epoxies (like most coatings) require a surface profile for proper adhesion. Applying coatings to a smooth wire wheeled surface Will effect in less adhesion than a properly prepared surface.
Ane of the primary benefits of using epoxies is their excellent adhesion to a properly prepared steel surface. By compromising the adhesion, it defeats the purpose of using that production.

Also, avert creating too much contour by using likewise heavy of a grit when blasting or sanding. Information technology can lead to simply as many problems as not enough profile.

then.. a wire wheel is smoother than sanded? And past "profile" you lot mean the roughness, or dust? of the surface? What'south the best grit sandpaper to utilize prior to epoxy primer?
And so, is there a proper grit to wet or dry sand the epoxy primer, earlier last paint layer?

Ok, thanks!
-J

Splangy

so.. a wire wheel is smoother than sanded? And by "contour" you mean the roughness, or dust? of the surface? What's the best grit sandpaper to use prior to epoxy primer?
And and then, is there a proper grit to wet or dry sand the epoxy primer, before final pigment layer?
Ok, thanks!
-J

wire wheeling is WAY smoother than sanding. IN fact, it smoothes the surface. Surface profile is a technical term that refers to the roughness of the surface after blasting or sanding. It can exist measured with instruments when things matter nearly (like million dollar bridge painting projects), and is specified by the blanket manufacturer to match the particular product you're using. Download and read the tech sheets for the products you're using and you'll find the recommended dust to achieve the best profile.

You lot typically don't sand and paint epoxies. You typically either coat with a surfacer primer or paint within the recoat "window" (menses of time) specified by the manufacturer, or sand and apply another glaze of epoxy and so topcoat within the recoat window. Nigh epoxies just have a 3-5 twenty-four hour period recoat window. After that they can no longer rely on chemical adhesion and need to rely on mechanical adhesion (have to be sanded). The Tech sheets will specify the right dust paper for the next coat.

Sanding epoxies sucks. They gum up your paper and are non fun to sand. Information technology'due south best to avoid information technology when possible.

noahenholm

If you're dealing with heavily rusted metal, this Rust-Oleum rusty metallic primer with anti-rust properties is the one for you. It provides a protective layer that volition ward off the present and future rust issues. I've used this primer before on rusty metal stair railings and farm equipment. It holds upward well and stops rust. Prepare the surface as best you can by scraping off anything loose and this stuff will aid prevent rust from reforming. Use an sometime or cheap brush considering information technology'due south hard to cleanout.

civicx what primer to use on bare metal

Primer or filler on blank metal? (1 Viewer)

ducktapeguy

PAToyota

Keystone Cruisers

ducktapeguy

FishNinJay

FishNinJay

Splangy

Splangy

FishNinJay

Splangy

noahenholm

Like threads

Users who are viewing this thread

0 Response to "civicx what primer to use on bare metal"

Post a Comment

Iklan Atas Artikel

Iklan Tengah Artikel 1

Iklan Tengah Artikel 2

Iklan Bawah Artikel